nomadic in april

Lost in Translation

During the days of the week I walk around Addis, people watch, sit at cafes sipping tea, (coffee when there is electricity) visit bookstores, venture onto minibus taxi rides, endure the ultimate patience test for 80s era internet speed at internet cafes and wherever else the wind blows me. Since I pass as Ethiopian, I mostly just blend in. . .until. . .

Usually goes something like this. . .

I enter one of the many glazed glass office looking buildings that are malls. Before entering I encounter either an airport style security scanner, the walk through kind and the bed scanner or a pair of guards wielding a magic wand. First we establish that I cannot speak Amharic. This after something is asked of me while I’m being felt up, head to toe and purse searched. (I’ve have enough x-rays in me enough for six lifetimes. hmmmm. . .I wonder if the side effects of this is considered or studied. . .not to mention the psychological effect.)

All I can understand is camera. In English I say “I don’t speak Amharic” If I say it in Amharic, then I’ll get a response in Amharic and we are back to square one. Consistently, I get this look. Now normally I am quite happy to blend in and not be stared at like many other places I’ve traveled. But this look. . .it’s a look mixed of what do you mean you don’t speak Amharic and What a shame that you have gone away and lost your culture. I’m always waived through with a look of pity and some murmurs as I walk away. In these situations I don’t bother explaining that I’m not Ethiopian. Although one woman told me I shouldn’t say I don’t speak Amharic, say I’m not Ethiopian.

I save that for the people I have conversations with, which goes something like this. . .

something, something, something (in Amharic)
Oh, I'm sorry, I don't speak Amharic.
eh? Oh you look Habesha. So is your father Ethiopian?
nope

Grandfather?
nope
Your mother?

nope
Are you Jamaican?
nope

Cuban?
nope. American.

American? But you are from here?

nope. American for many generations.

(still don't know how I can be Jamaican or Cuban but not American when it's the same story as the U.S.)

Also lost in translation. . .
 
Sudden in-take of air

What? Did I say something shocking, something wrong? I ask again.

Sudden in-take of air. . . with an ever so slight up knod of the head or lift of the eyebrow with the mouth just barely parted.

Oh now I get it. That sound I know as shock or surprise is an affirmation, yes, or yes continue. Very confusing at first.

Ish, ish, ish. . .also yes, continue

Hand shake, shoulder tap

Triple kiss, left right left cheek, no! right left right cheek.

All greetings which one do I do when?!!