nomadic in april

Kumasi, Central Ghana

Kumasi is the capital of the Ashanti (Asante) Region from where the kings of the Gold Coast hail. It was an important locale during the slave era as the Ashanti's were very active in slave trade. The terrain is hilly, the landscape very green. Sunsets are dramatic. The architecture is what remains from the colonial era. The buildings are uncharacteristic for this region. Most are shedding the last coats of red, orange and yellow paint. The rusting roofs are corrogated tin. From a hilltop you will see a vast density of earthtoned buildings surrounded by lush green.

Kumasi is known for it's Kejetia Market, one of the largest markets in Africa. It was like no other experience i've ever had. It gave new meaning to human traffic. Likewise, the streets of Kumasi are hopelessly deadlocked in bumper to bumper taxi traffic. Very few traffic lights, unbelievable traffic.

I visited the chief's palace and ran into a group of guys from California who'd I'd met a few days before in Cape Coast. We all took a tour together and learned about the intricacies of chieftancy and matrilineal inheritance. I asked about the glass cocoa pod in one of the display cases. This prompted the guide to show me the cocoa tree on the premises from which he gave me two cocoa pods.

I tried another Ghanaian chocolate bar. This one was being sold by a vendor out on the sidewalk. It was a very hot day, so much so that the vendor left their display of chocolates to sit in the nearby shade. But! The chocolate was not melting. It was a little soft, but still solid. This brand is called Golden Tree. The bar is called Portem Nut. It's a milk chocolate bar with nuts. No surprise, it was as bad as the Kingsbite bar and upon investigation of the label, I noticed that were made by the same manufacturer.

I stayed in Kumasi for about 5 days. I went to nearby villages to see how they weave kente cloth. Very intricate and amazing to watch. I could only afford to buy a small piece. The fabric is very expensive. I also visited the village where they carve the wooden stools that are significant to the chieftancy and queen mothers. Anyone can buy them and oh what an experience i had bargaining for one!

Kumasi, Kumasi, Kumasi. Equally beautiful and exhausting.